In the Shenandoah Valley, Thanksgiving was not celebrated until the late 1950’s- early 1960’s because everyone knew that
they were “Thankful for God’s Blessings” every day of their life and that they did not
need to set aside a special day just for this purpose. What we know as Thanksgiving, was the traditional day in November that
was used for butchering because the weather had to be just right, it could not
be too warm nor too cold – crisp or even cold temperatures were best for this important job which involved the whole family.
Butchering day was normally a busy day in which all members of the
family were awakened several hours earlier than usual and it was also a day when everyone usually remained at their tasks until long after dark.
If we step back and consider that pork was the mainstay of
the family’s diet and that in earlier times it was said that every part of the
pig was used except for its squeal, we can better understand the necessity for
this very long day and consider that it did involve everyone including young children whose parents knew that, “idle
hands were the devil’s workshop.”
Way before daylight it was customary to set up the
butchering site which was normally located near the house. Wide, hand cut boards which had been well scrubbed
with lye were placed across saw horses to make a large work space as it was
normal for a family to process six to eight hogs at a time as pork was the
mainstay of the family’s diet: bacon, side meat, sausage, souse, scrapple, panhaus, pork chops, pork loin and
fabulous hams.
The butchering site also included a scalding trough which
was filled with water that was brought to a rolling boil. Adjacent to the trough would be ropes or
chains which were then connected to the hind feet of the slaughtered hog.
Before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s go back and begin
just as the farm family would have started their day.
If extended family and neighbors were not butchering at
their own homes, they arrived very early to help with the multitude of chores
which had begun before anyone sat down at the family table to eat a hearty breakfast of hot
biscuits, sausage, gravy, eggs, fresh butter, jams and jellies, and pots of
steaming hot coffee.
Women prepared the meals and ran the kitchen. Men tended to the outside
area. All children did chores resulting from one area or the other. Why even children three years of age would
help carry water to fill the scalding trough or the big, black iron kettles
which were necessary to process the meat.
The actual process began with the men going to the hog pen
or sty. A sharp double-edged knife was
thrust into the throat of each hog. In
more recent times a more humane method of execution which kills the animal
almost instantly was a rifle shot into the animal’s brain. Even if the animal were shot it was still
necessary for the hog to be bled out.
The carcass was hauled to the scalding trough, where the
laid out ropes or chains were hooked to the hogs hind legs which allowed the
hog to be more easily rolled and turned after it was put into the hot
water. Care had to be taken to see that
the water was not too cold nor too hot which would allowed the skin to come off
along with the bristles.
Next, the carcass was pulled from the scalding trough and
scrapped clean of hog’s bristles which were sold or used by the family to make
brushes or were saved to be used in plastering rooms in their home. It
was then hung on a tall wooden tripod made of logs. It was a laborious job, requiring several
strong men, to raise a hog weighing between five to seven hundred pounds to the
top of the log tripod.
With the hind legs spread wide apart by a piece of wood
placed through the tendons the carcass was now ready for the actual butchering
process to begin. First the head was cut
from the body and hung on the tripod rest or on the lye scrubbed boards. Later the women would cook the head and use
the meat in making souse, panhaus, scrapple, etc.
The internal organs were removed and placed in large
tubs. These had to be scraped clean of
fat if they were to be used to make stuffed sausage links. They were determined to be useable if they
inflated like a balloon when blown into.
If they were full of holes from improper scraping they could not be used
to make stuffed sausage.
The women would cut the fat into small cubes to facilitate
it being rendered into lard; grinding meat into sausage, boiling meat and juices and preparing the puddings, pans
of scrapple, panhaus and souse.
Thrifty farm families strived to use all parts of the
hogs…even the reproductive organ of the male hog was hung in the woodshed where
it was used for greasing the buck-saw.
What little that did remain from butchering was fed to the cats and dogs
as a special treat. Some families enjoyed
pinning the tail on an unsuspecting person’s back at school or even at church or
so I’ve been told.
In addition to the shoulders, hams and sides which were
normally cured by smoking or other methods which was somewhat unique to each
family, the following products were made.
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| Hanging Smoked Hams and Shoulders |
Chittlings were
made by washing the large intestines of the hog, removing any fat. They were then turned inside out and the
tissue was scraped off. A specific board about four inches wide was commonly
used for this purpose. Many people
contended that they should be scrapped three complete times. They were then soaked in salted water for
several days. To serve they were boiled
in water until tender, drained and then deep fried in hot fat. They were then served crisp similar to potato
chips.
Dutch Goose is
made by mixing the following: one quart of diced potatoes, one pound of
sausage, one chopped onion and two quarts of bread cubes. The mixture is then moistened with water or
milk and stuffed into a clean pig’s stomach.
Roast for about two hours. A rich gravy will also result.
Fried Brains
was made by covering the hog’s brains with cold salted water to which three tablespoons of apple cider vinegar had been added. This was then allowed to soak for several
hours. The liquid was then drained and the
membranes removed. The brains were then
simmered in salted water until they were tender. They were then drained, seasoned with salt
and pepper, and then dipped into a well-beaten egg and then dipped into well
crushed cracker crumbs. They were then
fried in deep fat. Other folk might have
chosen to chop the brains fine, fry them in butter and then mix them into
scrambled eggs.
Liver Pudding
was made by cooking a hog’s liver and its heart along with skins until all were
very tender. The meat was then ground by
a coarse chopper. The broth was then
added to the meat mixture. Flour and corn meal [about half of each] was then
added to thicken the mixture. This was stirred
constantly until it was poured into shallow pans and then allowed to cool.
Panhaus is made by heating six cups of pork broth and
slowly sprinkling one and a quarter cups of yellow corn meal into the boiling
liquid. Cook until the mixture thickens
and then stir in two cups of finely chopped pork [use odd parts left over from
butchering]. Add one tablespoon of salt;
a quarter tablespoon of pepper and a half tablespoon of finely chopped
sage. Stir well to blend the mixture and
pour into loaf pans. When cool, remove
the panhaus from the loaf pans. To
serve, cut the loaf cross wise into quarter inch thick slices, fry slices in
hot fat until they turn a golden brown on both sides.
Scrapple
is made by soaking a hog’s head in water overnight. Add this to the hog skins and pieces which
were left over from butchering. Boil
together until well done. Remove the
meat from the bones and cool. Strain the
liquid to removed unwanted parts. Chop the meat by running it through a coarse
grinder and place it in the liquid and allow this mixture to slowly
simmer. Sprinkle in a quart of corn meal and stir constantly. Season with black pepper, salt and finely chopped
sage to suit your taste and then cook the mixture for at least twenty more
minutes. Pour this mixture into loaf pans and allow it
to cool. To serve, cut the loaf into
thin slices and fry until golden brown.
Souse is
made by cooking eight hog’s feet and four ears in salted water to cover. When the meat is tender, pick it from the
bones and chop it into very small pieces.
Add pepper and finely chopped sage
or thyme into the meat and liquid.
Pour into loaf pans or other molds and allow it to cool. This is a
jelled meat. Some folk add finely
chopped red and green peppers and a tad bit of apple cider vinegar to the
mixture for color and a more pronounced flavor.
Tripe is
made by soaking the pig’s stomach in salt and baking soda. Scrape the stomach so it is not lick and then
soak it again in cold salted water overnight.
Parboil the stomach until it is tender.
Slice and fry in butter.
